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CURRENT PROGRAMS 2013-14:
Click here to buy tickets online for current programs; members receive advance notice by email.
CULINARY HISTORIANS OF NEW YORK PRESENT
"Dethroning the Deceitful Pork Chop: Black Progressive Era Food Reformers and the Case Study of the Tuskegee Institute"
Jennifer Jensen Wallach
Monday, June 9, 2014
African-American food practices in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries were one aspect of the middle class program for racial “uplift.” Because African-Americans had few viable ways to combat state sanctioned racism and unchecked racial violence, many chose to fight the battle for human dignity within the realm of culture. By disassociating themselves from food practices evocative of southern regionalism and, by extension, of the dark history of slavery, many self-consciously respectable eaters tried to convince white racists of their shared humanity.
At the Tuskegee Institute, Booker T. Washington promoted ideas about proper food behavior drawn from the philosophy of racial uplift as well as from the work of white domestic scientists. He advocated for the consumption of beef, a meat that he regarded as a symbol of Americanization, instead of pork, seeing food habits as a possible avenue for assimilation. But he did not strive to displace all southern, regional foods from the dinner table: he used ideas about proper food to advocate for racial pride and for economic nationalism, necessary ingredients if white racism could not be effectively neutralized.
Appropriate foods will be served at the reception preceding the event.
Jennifer Jensen Wallach is the recipient of the 2013 CHNY Scholar’s Grant. She is an associate professor of history at the University of North Texas where she teaches African-American history and United States food history. She is the author of Closer to the Truth than Any Fact: Memoir, Memory, and Jim Crow (2008), Richard Wright: From Black Boy to World Citizen (2010), How America Eats: A Social History of U.S. Food and Culture (2013), and the coeditor of Arsnick: The Student Nonviolent Coordinating Committee in Arkansas (2011). Wallach is coeditor of the forthcoming American Appetites: A Documentary Reader and of the Routledge History of American Foodways. She is also the series editor of the University of Arkansas Press Series on Food and Foodways.
411 Lafayette St, 5th floor (between West 4th and Astor Place)
New York, New York 10003
6:30 pm Check-in and reception | 7:00 pm Lecture
$25 CHNY Members | $22 CHNY Senior Members | $10 Students* | $40 Non-Members and Guests
*Please note new student rate for full-time students with ID
PLEASE RESERVE BY JUNE 6.
Ticket price includes reception with beverage and tasting.
To buy tickets securely online for current programs, click here. (Note: join CHNY now to receive advance e-mail notice of all events, ticket pre-sales, and discounted member rate.)
SAVE THE DATE(S):
Our current season concludes with the June program. We'll see you again in September 2014.
Monday, May 19, 2014
George Solt, "The Slurpy, Messy History of Ramen"
Monday, March 10, 2014
Nick Malgieri, “Sicily and Its Sweets”
Monday, February 3, 2014
"Candy: A Century of Panic and Pleasure" with Samira Kawash
Monday, January 13, 2014
“The Making of Modern American Vegetarianism” with Adam Shprintzen
Monday, December 2, 2013
“Vodka Goes Global” with Patricia Herlihy
Thursday, November 21, 2013
"Cooking and Modern Art" with Mary Ann Caws
Thursday, October 10, 2013
"Southern Italy and Genoa in the Early History of Pasta: Debunking the Myth of Arab Influence"
Speaker: Dr. Anthony Buccini
Thursday, September 19, 2013
"A Celebration of Our Members Season Opener plus Annual Business Meeting"
Continuing tradition, we launched our season of culinary history programs with an evening of short presentations on recent work by CHNY members: Jacqueline Newman, recipient of the 2009 Amelia Award, on “Chinese Immigrants and Cookbooks,” Ewa Ojarovska on “Dining with the Washingtons,” and Peter Rose on “Cooking Historical Recipes with Children.” This year’s featured speaker was India Mandelkern, recipient of the 2012 Scholar’s Grant, speaking on “Dining and Taste-making in 18th-century London.
Thursday, May 30, 2013
"Man Bites Dog: What Hot Dogs Tell Us About America"
Speakers: Bruce Kraig and Patty Carroll
Wednesday, April 17, 2013
"From Borscht to Bliny"
Wednesday, March 20, 2013
"Good to Think and Good to Eat: Symbolic Cannibalism and Edible Springtime Rites"
Wednesday, February 13, 2013
"From Soup to Dessert: The History and Culture of Turkish Yogurt"
Wednesday, January 23, 2013
"Beer Before 1820: The Flavorful Cornucopia of Early American Brews"
Speakers: Joe & Dennis Fisher
Monday, December 3, 2012
"Armagnac: From Ancient Egypt to Gascony"
Speaker: David Lincoln Ross
Wednesday, November 14, 2012
"Ancestral Pots and Cucharamamas: A Personal Journey Through Latin American Cooking"
Speaker: Maricel Presilla
Wednesday, October 10, 2012
Culinary Historians of New York in partnership with Mount Vernon Hotel Museum & Garden presents
"Apples Far and Near: From Prehistory to Modern Genome Projects"
Speakers: Elizabeth Ryan, Anne Mendelson, and Erik Baard
Wednesday, September 12, 2012
A Celebration of Our Members: 2012-13 Season Opener and Annual Members Meeting
This year’s featured speaker is Arno Schmidt, former executive chef of the Waldorf-Astoria, on “Dining in New York.” Other speakers will include Sunny Allaire-Graham on “Networks of Recipe Sharing in Early Modern England,” Elizabeth Field on “Marmalade,” and Kara Newman on her forthcoming book, The Secret Financial Life of Food.
Thursday, May 31, 2012
"9000 Years of Cheese: Fermenting Religion, Climate Change, and the Environment"
Speaker: Paul Kindstedt
Wednesday, May 2, 2012
"Revelations from the Weird World of Mushrooms"
Speaker: Eugenia Bone
Wednesday, April 18, 2012
"Beating the Nazis with Truffles and Tripe: The Early Years of Gourmet: The Magazine of Good Living"
Speaker: David Strauss
Wednesday, March 28, 2012
"The Cookbook Family Tree"
Speaker: Anne Willan
Monday, March 19, 2012
"Bread: A Global History"
Speaker: William Rubel
Monday, February 13, 2012
"The Baking Powder Revolution: Creating an Edible American Identity"
Speaker: Linda Civitello
Thursday, January 26, 2012
"Feeding Gotham: New York City Markets, 1790–1860"
Speaker: Gergely Baics
Wednesday, December 14, 2011
"'For the Accommodation of the Ladies': Gender & Public Dining in 19th C. New York"
Speaker: Cindy R. Lobel
Thursday, November 10, 2011
"The Old Girl Network: Charity Cookbooks and the Empowerment of Women"
Speaker: Janice Bluestein Longone
and Presentation of 2011 Amelia Award to Janice Bluestein Longone
Location: New York Public Library
Thursday, October 6, 2011
Speaker: "Paula Wolfert: The Food of Morocco"
Thursday, September 22, 2011
"A Celebration of Our Members and Annual Business Meeting"
Judith Weinraub on her oral history project for the Fales Library Food Studies Collection, “Voices from the Food Revolution: Conversations with people who’ve changed the way we think about food.”
Nathalie Herling, on cooking in clay cookware, focusing on her work with women in Colombia and their clay cookware tradition that dates back to Pre-Colombian times.
Kim Sorensen, 2010 CHNY Scholar’s Grant recipient, talking about her research on the carved mahogany cake boards used to raise designs on New Year’s Cakes in early nineteenth century New York.
Wednesday, June 8, 2011
"The Food of Spain: A Most Intricate Gastronomic Tapestry"
Speaker: Claudia Roden
Thursday, June 16, 2011
"Reconstructing Historic Royal Kitchens"
Speaker: Marc Meltonville, Food Historian, Historic Royal Palaces, England
Tuesday, April 12, 2011
"Starving the South - New York in the Civil War" with Farm City Chautauqua at 61 Local
Speaker: Andrew F. Smith
Monday, March 14, 2011
"In Search of the Bloody Mary"
Speaker: Jeffrey Pogash
Thursday, February 17, 2011
"Cantonese Cooking Schools: Transmitting Knowledge and Transforming Cuisine"
Speaker: Willa Zhen
Wednesday, January 19, 2011
"The Edible History of an Immigrant Ghetto"
Speaker: Jane Ziegelman
Monday, December 13, 2010
"The Spirited Whey: Monastic Traditions in Liqueurs and Cheeses"
A lecture and tasting with CHNY members Kara Newman & Diana Pittet
Thursday, November 11, 2010
"Quiches, Kugels, and Couscous: In Search of the Food of the Jews of France"
Speaker: Joan Nathan
Tuesday, October 19, 2010
A Special CHNY Evening
"Heirloom Seeds and Heritage Breeds: How Our Agricultural Past Informs the Way We Eat Today"
A Tribute to Betty Fussell: Indefatigable Cook, Writer, Researcher, and Culinary Trailblazer
Betty Fussell, iconic American food historian and author of numerous books, received the 2010 Amelia Award for Lifetime Achievement in Culinary History. A member of CHNY for over two decades, Betty has been at the forefront of culinary issues, receiving the first IACP Jane Grigson Award in 1993 for "The Story of Corn" and the James Beard Foundation Award for Journalism for "American Prime" (2008), and she was inducted into the James Beard Foundation Who's Who of Food & Beverage in America in 2009. In honor of Betty's many contributions to food and gastronomy, CHNY is presenting a lively panel discussion on a subject she has championed throughout her career.
Culinary history is being re-lived today as the seeds and breeds of yesteryear are appearing in farmers' markets and gardens around the country. How is our agricultural past shaping the way we are eating today? What is the future of heirloom seeds and heritage breeds in the modern agricultural landscape? What lessons have been learned from large-scale commercial agriculture? Join the discussion about foods that are once again sprouting up around the country.
Moderator: Karin Endy, Chair of The Culinary Trust and owner of Edible Resources, a consulting company assisting non-profits and food companies with education and sustainability matters.
Wednesday, September 22, 2010
"Season Opener: A Celebration of Our Members IV and Annual Business Meeting"
Ellen Schnepel, CHNY Scholar’s Grant recipient, on her research on “The Cooking of History: Early Travelogues as Gastronomic Adventure," focusing on chocolate
Joelle Mahony, on sugar confectionary techniques used during the reigns of Louis XIV, XV and XVI
Laura Weiss, on her new book “Ice Cream: A Global History”
Renée Marton, on “Rice in Colonial America: The Birth of an Industry”
Rynn Berry, on his new book “Becoming Raw: An Essential Guide to Vegan Raw Food Diets”
Susan Yager, on her recent book “The Hundred Year Diet: America's Voracious Appetite for Losing Weight”
Thursday, June 10, 2010
"Harlem’s Skill: Senses and Sensibility in Uptown Manhattan"
Speaker: Damian Mosley
Wednesday, May 19, 2010
Culinary Historians of New York in partnership with Mount Vernon Hotel Museum
"'I scream, you scream…': The History of Ice Cream Making"
Speaker: Jeri Quinzio
Thursday, April 29, 2010
A Joint Presentation of the Culinary Historians of New York and the National Arts Club
"Gastronomy in the Still-life Paintings of Luis Meléndez"
Speaker: Gillian Riley
Tuesday, March 23, 2010
Special Joint Presentation: CULINARY HISTORIANS OF NEW YORK and MUSEUM OF CHINESE IN AMERICA
"Chinese Food in America: Perspectives on the Changing Foodways in America's Chinatowns and Her Heartlands"
A panel discussion moderated by Andy Coe, author of the James Beard-nominated Chop Suey: A Cultural History of Chinese Food in America and featuring Jessica Chien, born and raised in Taiwan and now a pastry chef and food blogger (writing in Chinese for Chinese visitors to the New York area at blog.nyanything.com); Kian Lam Kho, a cooking teacher and blogger (writing in English for an American audience at redcook.net), born and raised in Singapore; Jeffrey Chuang, born in Oxford, Mississippi and raised eating Chinese food in Ohio without access to a regular supply of soy sauce; and Stephanie Wang-Breal, an American-born documentary film maker whose award-winning Wo Ai Ni Mommy explores cultural issues between China and America. Listen to the podcast here (note: audio file is large and may load slowly) -and- A Tribute to Jacqueline Newman, Chinese-American Culinary Ambassador Extraordinaire, recipient of the 2009 Amelia Award for lifetime achievement in culinary history
Monday, February 8, 2010
"Wine's Best Kept Secret: Authentic Sherry"
Speaker: Linda Lawry, DWS
Thursday, January 21, 2010
"How Fat Became a Four-Letter Word"
Speaker: Jennifer McLagan
Thursday, December 3, 2009
“Joyful Traditions: How the Dutch St. Nicholas Celebration Brought Us Santa, Presents, and Holiday Treats”
Speaker: Peter G. Rose
Wednesday, October 14, 2009
“Is There a Midwestern Cuisine? Culinary Identities of the American Heartland:
Fish Boils, Fish Fries, the Cudighi and Runza, Ohio Mango, the Coney and Big Baby”
Speaker: Bruce Kraig
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
"A Celebration of Our Members III and Annual Business Meeting"
Speakers: CHNY Members
-- Megan Elias, 2007 CHNY Scholar’s Grant recipient, on her research on “Cooking the Books: Nationalism, Regionalism, and American Cookbooks, 1865–1917.”
-- Francine Segan, editor of the encyclopedia Entertaining from Ancient Rome to the Super Bowl (Greenwood, 2008), will introduce Entertaining and the CHNY members who contributed: Diana Pittet on the history of the cheese course; Ammini Ramachandran on Indian foods; and Ellen Schnepel on chocolate.
Wednesday, June 10, 2009
"Ethnicity and American Restaurants"
Speaker: Krishnendu Ray
Wednesday, May 20, 2009
"TV Dinners: A History of Television Cooking Shows"
Speaker: Kathleen Collins
Wednesday, April 15, 2009
"When Aging Is Good: The History and Art of Great Beef"
Speaker: Betty Fussell
Thursday, March 12, 2009
"The Taste of Sweet"
Speaker: Joanne Chen
Wednesday, February 25, 2009
"Pork Bellies: The Secret Financial Life of Your Food"
Speaker: Kara Newman
Wednesday, January 21, 2009
Speaker: Nancy Carlisle
Tuesday, December 9, 2008
"The Raw Milk Wars"
Speaker: Anne Mendelson
Monday, November 17, 2008
"The Tomato Queen of San Joaquin"
Speaker: Ken Albala
Monday, October 20, 2008
CHNY in conjunction with Astor Center present:
"Swindled: The Dark History of Food Fraud from Poisoned Candy to Counterfeit Coffee"
Speaker: Bee Wilson
"A Celebration of Our Members II" and Annual Meeting
The members giving presentations included:
Jesse Browner, "The Uncertain Hour" (his novel about ancient Rome; Bloomsbury, 2007);
Marion Nestle, "Pet Food Politics: The Chihuahua in the Coal Mine" (University of California Press, September 2008);
Jacqueline Newman, "Cooking from China's Fujian Province" (Hippocrene Books, August 2008);
Lara Rabinovich, "Pastrami and the City: Romanian Jewish Immigrants in Early 20th Century New York";
Francine Segan, "Opera Lover's Cookbook" (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2006); and
Pat Willard, "America Eats: On the Road with the WPA" (Bloomsbury, July 2008).
"George Washington Carver: Botanist, Teacher, Inventor, and—Cookbook Writer?"
"Dates in Medieval Baghdad: Sweet Eats to Heady Drinks"
(presented in association with the National Arts Club’s Culinary Arts Committee)
Speaker: Nawal Nasrallah
"Lisbon and Spices: Transforming the World's Culinary Horizons"
Speaker: Michael Krondl
"The History of Chop Suey in America"
Speaker: Andrew Coe
"The Olympia Oyster"
Speaker: Jon Rowley
"Refined Cuisine or Just Plain Cooking? Moralists in the Kitchen"
Speaker: Rachel Laudan
"The Spectacular Failure of Prohibition in New York City"
Speaker: Michael Lerner
"Molecular Gastronomy and the Role of Science in the Kitchen: The Past, Present, and Future of 'Scientific Cooking"
A conversation with Hervé This and Mitchell Davis
"Bones of Retention: Exploring the Prehistory of the Human Diet"
Speaker: Andrew Sillen
"A Celebration of Our Members"
The members giving presentations included:
Rynn Berry, “The History of Vegetarian Restaurants”;
Carolina Capehart, "Fireside Feasts: Early 1800s Culinary Adventures”;
Bunny Crumpacker, The Sex Life of Food (St. Martin’s Press, 2006);
Zilkia Janer, Latino American Food Culture (Greenwood Press, forthcoming);
Cathy Kaufman, Cooking in Ancient Civilizations (Greenwood Press, 2006);
Elizabeth Knight, Tea in the City: New York (Benjamin Press, 2006);
Alexandra Leaf; Ammini Ramachandran, Grains, Greens, and Grated Coconut (iUniverse, 2007); and
Francine Segan, The Opera Lover’s Cookbook (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2006).
Speaker: Mark F. Sohn, Ph.D.
"A Cultural History of Artisan Cheesemaking in America"
Speaker: Paul S. Kindstedt, Ph.D., Vermont Institute for Artisan Cheese, University of Vermont
"America Eats" Symposium
Culinary Historians of New York is thrilled to present an all-day symposium investigating American foodways during the Depression and World War II, inspired by the Works Project Administration’s unfinished “America Eats” project. The mission of the project—abandoned at the outset of World War II—was to document local and regional foodways through extensive field research and interviews of participants at food events from church suppers and clambakes to barbecues and holiday meals. The luscious diversity of community meals, especially in rural enclaves, is served up in these typewritten documents that were relegated to scattered and forgotten archives when the project was abandoned that are only now being plumbed by scholars to help understand American food of the 1930s and ‘40s. Many of the documents have yet to be located, and the final session of the symposium will attempt to create an action plan for ferreting out still-hidden remnants of the America Eats project to preserve primary source materials for current and future food scholars.
NOTE: To get in touch with CHNY about "America Eats" ongoing research or resources, please contact us.
"America Eats" Symposium Schedule of Events and Speakers:
9:30-10:15 Registration and coffee
10:15-10:30 Opening remarks
10:30-12:30 Panel discussion and Q & A by Elizabeth Alsop, Pat Willard, Charles Camp, and Anne Mendelson, all food scholars who have worked extensively with primary source "America Eats" documents
12:30-1:30 Buffet lunch of foods featured in the "America Eats" archives
1:30-1:45 Presentation of CHNY Amelia Award to internationally-recognized food scholar Barbara Ketcham Wheaton
1:45-3:30 Panel discussion and Q&A by Amy Bentley, Annie Hauck-Lawson, Joanne Lamb Hayes, all scholars on American food of the Depression and WWII, moderated by Cara De Silva
3:30-4:00 Group discussion for finding and preserving hidden "America Eats" materials
"In Pursuit of Tea"
"Chocolate Past and Present: A Cultural History"
Speaker: Alexandra Leaf
"Absinthe, A Dark Tale"
Speaker: Dr. David Weir
"Gingerbread Houses - Crumbs of History: A Little Trivia and a Little Technique"
Speaker: Joanne Lamb Hayes
Thanksgiving Program - "A Tale of Two Books: Giving Thanks for Colonial Food History"
Speaker: Sandra Oliver, Editor of Food History News
"Guilty Pleasures: The History of Fast Food"
Speaker: Andrew F. Smith
"A Brief History of Apicius in Italy"
Speakers: Sally Grainger, Christopher Grocock, Ken Albala
Fall Cocktail Reception and Annual Meeting
Special Presentation: "The History of the Cocktail" by Allen Katz
"Dining with Don Quixote"
Speaker: Janet Mendel
"History of the American Whiskey Rebellion"
Speaker: William Hogeland (click here for more information on the book)
SPECIAL BOOK EVENT - "Washoku: Recipes from a Japanese Kitchen"
Speaker: Elizabeth Andoh
"Spices and the Medieval Culinary Aesthetic"
Speaker: Paul Freedman, medieval social historian and Chairman of the History Department at Yale University
"Fish on Friday: How Fish Eating Changed History"
Speaker: Brian Fagan
"The Dark Side of Rum"
Speakers: Jared Brown and Anistatia Miller
"Gastronomy and Gluttony in Early Modern China"
Speaker: Joanna Waley-Cohen
"Dining With The Gods: A Lecture, Viewing and Tasting of the Culinary Culture of Ancient Greece"
Speaker: Andrew Dalby
Panel Discussion - "The History and Impact of Restaurant Reviews on the New York Dining Scene"
Mitchell Davis, James Beard Foundation
Michael Batterberry, editor-in-chief/publisher Food Arts
Bob Lape, restaurant reviewer
William Grimes, former New York Times restaurant reviewer
Gael Greene, food writer-at-large, New York magazine
"Some Like it Hot: A History of the World's Hottest Cuisines"
Speaker: Clifford Wright
"A Revolution in Eating: How the Quest for Food Shaped America"
Speaker: James E. McWilliams
"The History and Pre-History of Pigs"
Speaker: Peter Kaminsky, author of Pig Perfect: Encounters with Remarkable Swine (click here for more information on the book)
"Fresh from the Past: Recipes and Revelations from Moll Flanders' Kitchen: Writing Culinary History with 18th Century Cookbooks"
Speaker: Sandra Sherman
April 5, 2005
"Candy Bars and the Birth of the American Spirit"
Speaker: Steve Almond, Author of CandyFreak (click here for more information on the book)
"Foods of New York"
Speaker: Arthur Schwartz
"Apicius: New 21st Century Translation"
Speakers: Sally Grainger & Dr. Chris Grocock
"The Good Soup Comes from the Good Earth... West African Food Culture"
Speaker: Fran Osseo-Asare
"The Wine & Food of 17th Century Jewish Mystics: How to Feast like an Ancient Kabbalist"
Speaker: Alan Brill
HOLIDAY PARTY - "Punch: A Brief History of the Monarch of Mixed Drinks"
Speaker: Mixology Historian Dave Wondrich
"A Thousand Years Over a Hot Stove: A History of American Women Told Through Food, Recipes, and Remembrances"
Speaker: Author Laura Schenone (click here for more information on the book)
PUBLICATION CELEBRATION for the Oxford Encyclopedia of Food & Drink in America
2:45 pm - 6:00 pm Symposium
6:00 pm - 8:00 pm Reception
"Something from the Oven"
Speaker: Author Laura Shapiro on how the food industry of the 1940's and 50's tried to revolutionize the kitchen and how women fought back, based on her book, Something From The Oven
Location: Goldman Associates Luxury Showroom
"New Hampshire: A Study in Agricultural and Culinary Innovation"
Speaker: Helen Brody
"Cooking for Kings: A Restauration Comedy"
Starring: Ian Kelly, actor and author of Cooking for Kings: The Life of Antonin Carême, the First Celebrity Chef
Location: Vintage Wine Cellar
"New York City's Greenmarkets: A History and Inside View"
Richard Ruben, cooking instructor at the Institute of Culinary Education and author of The Farmer’s Market Cookbook.
Barry Benepe, founder of Greenmarket in New York City
Amy Nicholson, third generation family farmer, Red Jacket Orchards in Geneva, NY
Dan Barber, chef/owner of Blue Hill Restaurant, NYC
"Ekiben: A Culinary Train Tour of Japan"
Speaker: Elizabeth Andoh